Explore the emerging craft cocktail culture in Singapore (2023)

This article is taken from National Geographic Traveler (UK).

It's almost lunchtime in Singapore and I'm about to eat my oyster omelette. I'm not sitting in one of the city's famous open-air centers enjoying a local favorite – a large mass of crispy, gooey eggs studded with juicy clams – I'm sitting at the bar enjoying an eponymous cocktail.

The bright yellow concoction is creamy and wonderfully rich in umami, surprisingly reminiscent of the dish it celebrates. Bartender Josh reveals that the base of the cocktail is a distillate of oysters harvested in the waters of Pulau Ubin, a small island northeast of Singapore. The drink is topped with miso egg foam, coriander sprouts, some Kampot pepper and some Shaoxing rice wine. And it's served in a cup made of oyster shells, no more, no less.

The oyster omelette is one of many imaginative snacksFamily, a casual two-story bar in Singapore's Chinatown, where colorful historic shops line the towering skyscrapers. Opened in 2016, the bar celebrates local and regional spirits, food and flavors while producing as little waste as possible (creative barware explained). To this end, many of its ingredients are dried, pickled or fermented to extend their shelf life. "In a small place like Singapore, shopping can be a challenge," says owner Vijay Mudaliar. "Sometimes we get great products, so I'm always thinking of ways to highlight and expand those flavors. And sometimes we get products that aren't so fresh but can be fermented," he adds, pointing to the rows of pickles on the shelves .

This, along with efforts to compost and recycle the rods, has effectively created a near-zero-waste operation. "The amount of waste a bar throws out every night can fit in the palm of your hand," says Vivian Pei, cooking instructor, writer and senior director of the Academy's annual issue.50 best bars in the worldA list. She is one of my guides this evening, the other being Gan Guoyi, co-founder of Jigger & Pony, a local catering monster. Both ladies go up as wellSingapore Cocktail Bar Association, a non-profit organization that promotes the city's craft cocktail culture.

Native is not the only bar in Singapore that focuses on local and regional ingredients. We visit each other nearbyDom Sago, another busy stream in Chinatown. Occupying the top floor of the shop near the Temple of the Buddha's Tooth - a magnificent red and white building built in the Tang Dynasty style in 2007 - it offers a weekly rotation of cocktails modeled after what's available in local markets. Perusing the menu options with a felt-tip pen written on the glass, I reach for a tall shot of Korean Chuga soju, a coconut-citrus vodka and tieguanyin, a Chinese oolong tea popular in Singapore. The cocktail is light and smooth with a subtle hint of vanilla which makes it easy to drink.

I look around the small, dimly lit bar, which is expected to be lively on a Saturday night. Vivian describes it as a "labor of love": Opened during the pandemic, its three co-owners built the interior almost entirely by hand using recycled materials, including coffee bags rescued from local roasters. The result is an edgy, eclectic space enlivened by a colorful cartoon mural and R&B music. "I feel like I'm coming to a friend's house," says Vivian. "It's not flashy, flashy or super chic, but that's part of the charm."

After emptying our glasses, we step out into the balmy night, walking through busy streets festooned with lanterns and past groups of elderly men playing Chinese chess on the pavement. Our last stop this evening is one of Guoyi's bars,Gibson, is located in the former huay kuan (association of Chinese clans) building from 1935. Guoya's late grandfather was the founder and president of the Gan Clan Cultural Association, and the family's legacy lives on today through Gibson.

"For me, it was a natural decision to take over the property. One of the things I love about this building is its heritage, so I wanted to preserve its original facade and structure,” says Guoyi, pointing to the beautiful stained glass windows and historic ceiling. Similarly, the back of the Gibson is lined with (newer) stained glass, adding a vintage feel to the room.

Like Native and Sago House, Gibson sources many ingredients from local and regional producers. This ethos is evident in my favorite Urban Farmer No. 3, a light, fragrant blend of gin from Singapore's Brass Lion Distillery and passion fruit marigold, Granny Smith apple and lime from local farm Edible Garden City.

As I enjoy my drink, I wonder how far Singapore's craft cocktail scene has come. In the late 2000s, cocktail bars were rare, and beer and whiskey were the poison of choice for most drinkers. Fast forward 15 years and the city is filled with world-class venues, many of which promote local and regional flavors in their craft. As Guoyi says, these are places where "you really don't get a bad drink." I could not agree more.

The taste of the city

Over the next few days I visited even more bars to find further reflections of the city in imaginative drinks. It's first on my listNutmeg and cloves, a bright, airy space on Purvis Street, known for its Singaporean-inspired cocktails.

"There were a few cocktail bars in Singapore when we opened eight years ago, but they were mostly international," says owner Colin Chia. "I wanted to start what we could proudly call a Singaporean cocktail bar." He tells me that the bar menu always has something to do with Singapore. The latest iteration includes 10 tips inspired by a traveler's story of visiting the city.

Singapore's infamous gum ban is blatantly evoked in the playful Can Bubble Gum?, a mezcal-based sugar concoction topped with a light candy-flavored foam. But the cocktail that caught my eye is the Garden City, which is Singapore's nickname. A surprising amount of nature is woven into Singapore's urban fabric, from tree-lined streets and green parks to the Cloud Forest iGardens by the bayand the UNESCO-listed Singapore Botanic Gardens. It's an abundance of greenery surrounded by a drink - a light herbal drink with gin and ayuk (a smoked spirit), infused with muskmelon, lime, shisa and a little honey.

Continued pressure in place onThe origins of the bar at Shangri-La Singapore, an elegant space decorated with dark wood, gold details and peacock shades of blue. Here, bartenders shake up creative cocktails inspired by the city's six key neighborhoods. On the recommendation of Adam Bursik, the bar manager, I choose two rum-based creations: ID Please, a refreshing blend of Chalong Bay rum, white cocoa, yuzu and lemongrass; and Tropez, a rich, smoky blend of Matusalem chocolate rum, vermouth and Buddha palm (a finger lemon native to Asia). As Adam explains, both cocktails are a tribute to the historic district of Balestier. "Balestier used to be a sugarcane plantation, hence the rum," he says.

Other offerings on the current menu include the Crystal Moj!to, a modern take on the classic cocktail. Instead of mixing mint leaves and lime juice, Adam distills both ingredients to create a clear blend. It's an innovative technique that references the ultra-modern Marina Bay district, famous for its spaceship-shaped hotel and solar-powered Supertrees vertical gardens.

alreadyThe elephant room, the focus is exclusively on the bustling enclave of Little India, where colorful markets smell of spices and street vendors sell everything from flower garlands to gold jewellery. According to co-founder Yugnes Suseli, "everything in the Elephant Room has some reference to Little India." For example, the menus and coasters are embroidered with scraps of fabric from nearby sari shops, and the bar is made of rust-colored jaali (ventilation blocks common in Indian architecture). Similarly, the shelves are lined with only Indian spirits, with ingredients sourced weekly from the Little India markets.

Yugnes wastes no time serving me his best-selling drink, Buffalo Road: a pink gin with guava bought on the street of the same name in Little India. "Gin and tonic originated in colonial India," he says. "We decided to spice it up a bit by adding some vetiver [a grass native to India] to give it a woody note." Then he offers me a taste of The Mango, a carbonated version of mango lassi (yoghurt-based drink) with ginger foam. Yugnes says that in some Indian cultures, mangoes are considered a "paradise fruit" that often appear at important occasions such as weddings.

"A lot of locals don't really know much about Little India apart from the Mustafa Center [mall], and that's kind of sad," says Yugnes. "But when customers leave our doors, they learn something new." Walking out of the bar filled with even more culturally inspired cocktails an hour later, I can say I feel enlightened.

Top 8 Creative Cocktail Bars in Singapore

1.Atlas
Best with: lots of gin
This elegant bar is known for its opulent Art Deco interior and a huge 7-metre-long liquor cabinet with around 1,300 types of gin from as far afield as Iceland, Moldova and Argentina. The sheer size of the encyclopedic menu can be overwhelming, but you can't go wrong with one of the pine-based classics like the Martini - shaken by a smartly dressed mixologist who looks like he's straight out of The Great Gatsby.

2.Hr. Stork
Best for: Drinks with a view
Sir. Located at the top of the Andaz Singapore, Stork certainly offers spectacular views. Here you can enjoy sweeping views of Singapore's skyline while sipping on creative cocktails like the Balinese-inspired Barong, a mix of spiced rum, palm sugar, pineapple, lime and bitters. Reserve one of the bar's popular tipi huts, which are surrounded by tropical greenery, a sign that the storks build large nests in the trees.

3.Analog
Best with: vegan drinks
Conceived by Vijay Mudaliar of Native, this vegan bar was Singapore's first when it opened in 2021. Sustainability is at the center, from the tables made from recycled plastic and mycelium (a type of mushroom) to the 100% plant-based menu. Try the refreshing Cactus - a blend of prickly pear mezcal, pink tarragon and aloe vera - which pairs perfectly with dishes like pumpkin dumplings and celery ratatouille.

4.Hongkong ul
Best for: Speakeasy atmosphere
Known as 28HKS for short, this atmospheric venue is often credited with putting Singapore's cocktail scene on the map. Like most restaurants, it's almost invisible, hidden behind an unmarked door of a bland 1960s shop. But once you find it, you'll be rewarded with American comfort food and premium spirits like Lazy Bear (gin, vermouth, peach liqueur and French herbs). ), all set to a '90s hip-hop soundtrack.

5.Jigger and ponytail
Best for: a cozy atmosphere
This favorite hangout was ranked second in Asia's 50 Best Bars 2021, and for good reason. The drinks are delicious and the menu (loosely styled like an issue of Monoclemagazine, complete with full articles and photos) is perhaps the most creative. But it's the atmosphere that keeps you coming back. You'll find that the atmosphere is relaxed but never rowdy, and the friendly bartenders are happy to engage in conversation.

6.Manhattan
Best with: barrel-aged cocktails
Manhattan is not a typical hotel bar. It is classic, with lots of leather and dark wood, inspired by the glamor of New York in the 1920s. But its drink menu—a "pictorial cocktail essay" featuring Manhattan celebrities—stands out. Home to the world's first hotel rickhouse (a whiskey aging cellar), the barrel-aged cocktails are a must. The Rickhouse Trolley tasting flight includes the Paper Plane (Maker's Mark 46 bourbon, Amaro Montenegro, Aperol, Lemon).

7.Double pope
Best for: Literary gatherings
Formerly The Old Man Singapore (the Hong Kong branch of the original), the newly renamed Papa Doble continues to celebrate the life and work of Ernest Hemingway, who was affectionately called "Papa" in Cuba, where he lived for about 20 years. His experimental drink menu is inspired by the author's experiences - try the #1927 (Rémy Martin, Madagascar legume vermouth, maraschino and bitters), a bold, powerful cocktail that pays tribute to the author's vivacious second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer.

8.Platform
Best for: Low alcohol content
Head to this minimalist space for low-alcohol drinks; nothing on the menu is over 11% ABV. Its sprays focus on the "art of dilution", exploring how melting ice can change a drink's character over time. Choose Spicy Pepper 04 which contains ripe mango, green cardamom, togarashi salt and black pepper wine. It's a strong but light drink that won't make you feel guilty at dinnertime when the bar opens.

Q&A with Manhattan bar manager Rusty Cerven

How has the craft cocktail scene in Singapore evolved recently?
The use of regional craft spirits has increased, with the Philippines, South Korea and even Singapore producing their own gins with tropical herbs. Local ingredients are now also the core of our cocktail culture. With all these ingredients at hand, we have so much to do and so many stories to tell.

What is the secret to the perfect cocktail?
A sincere smile! Anyone can make a good cocktail with a little practice, but one prepared and served with great hospitality will always be impressive and memorable.

What are your three favorite bars in Singapore?
No sleeping club,Republican Bar Associationand Atlas. In that order, you'll encounter a friendly neighborhood bar, exceptional service and hospitality, and stunning interiors. Everyone is so different in their DNA.

Three tips for visitors to Singapore

1. Bottled cocktails are booming in Singapore and can easily be ordered delivered to your hotel room.Smoke and mirrorsoffers a wide selection of ready-made drinks in three different sizes: 100 ml, 250 ml and 500 ml.

2. Are you planning to spend the evening in a bar? It is best to move around using itTo catch, Singapore's equivalent of Uber, although you'll have to contend with surge pricing during peak periods.

3. Plan your trip to coincide with your annual tripSingapore cocktail festivalwhich will take place in late 2022 (dates to be determined). Participating bars will be shaking things up with themed concoctions, and bar tours and drinks-snacks await.

The basic

Access and surroundings

singapore airlinesoffers direct flights from London Heathrow and Manchester.British AirwaysandQantasthey also have a direct service from London to Singapore.

Average flight time: 13h30m.

To get around, you can rely on Singapore's extensive - exceptionally clean and comfortable - public transport network, which includes MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) trains and buses. You can also order a metered taxi or download the ride-sharing app Grab.

when to go

Hot, humid Singapore is a great place all year round, with temperatures constantly fluctuating between 25°C and 33°C. Due to the city's rainforest climate, showers and even thunderstorms occur regularly, especially in the afternoon, so be sure to pack an umbrella.

Where to live

The Fullerton Hotel i Singapore, Central Business District. From £248, room only.
Hotel lager, Robertson Quay. From £171, room only.

Mere information

visitsingapore.com
Lonely Planet Singapore, 13,99 GBP

How do you do it

Hayesa and Jarvisacan personalize a tour of Singapore and Bangkok where you have three days to explore the Lion City at your leisure before boarding the luxurious Eastern & Oriental Express train to Thailand. From £5,199 per person for 10 days in 2022 (2023 prices to be confirmed).

Published in the September 2022 issueNational Geographic Traveler (Storbritannien)

Follow us on social networks

Facebook|Twitter|Instagram